Wheels of Remembrance

Wheels of Remembrance

A Journey of Reconciliation on the Battlefields of the Great War

by Donna Ragan

Photos Link:  https://projecthero.smugmug.com/2025-Europe-Challenge

The echoes of the Great War—the cataclysmic conflict that reshaped the 20th century—continue to resonate not as a fading whisper, but as a perpetual call for remembrance, understanding, and reconciliation.
A century after the guns fell silent, the scarred landscapes of Western Europe remain poignant testaments to unimaginable sacrifice.

It is on these hallowed grounds that Project Hero, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit dedicated to fostering healing and camaraderie through cycling, conceived an extraordinary expedition: a ten-day cycling journey uniting individuals from nations once locked in brutal combat, now bound by a shared desire to honor the past and build a future of peace.

A Diverse Peloton with a Shared Purpose

The ride brought together 50 riders and five volunteers—including 24 Americans, 3 Canadians, 16 Germans, and 7 French participants—a vivid tapestry of nationalities whose ancestors once faced each other across the trenches.

The event was the vision of Project Hero Executive Director Todd Setter and Event Manager Hannah Smith, with crucial support from the German side, spearheaded by Major Julian Tatje and Sergeant Major Naef Adebahr of the German Sportschule der Bundeswehr. Their collaboration ensured both logistical precision and a spirit of cooperation that permeated every mile.

Organization and Support

 The logistical genius behind the ride was evident from the outset. To ensure safety and minimize traffic disruption, participants rode in three groups of 16–17 cyclists. This allowed for a more intimate experience within each group, regrouping at designated rest stops and memorial destinations. Every group was accompanied by a support van for mechanical or medical assistance. German volunteers, especially in the first days, were indispensable—providing water, electrolyte powders, and a broad selection of nutritious food to keep riders fueled for the challenging miles ahead.

The German Leg: Building Bonds

The journey began at the Sportschule der Bundeswehr in Warendorf, Germany, where three days of scenic rides and generous hospitality laid the foundation for camaraderie.

  • Friday, July 18 – A 27-mile counter-clockwise loop through the serene countryside around Sassenburg, passing the picturesque villages of Rippelbaum, Fuchtorf, and Kloster Vinnenburg before returning to Warendorf.
  • Saturday, July 19 – A more demanding 63-mile clockwise journey. The route led the riders in a general northeasterly direction, climbing into the majestic Teutoburger Forest. This was a delightful treat for the senses, a winding path through dense ancient woods and charming rural villages Aschendorf, Bad Rothenfelde, Borgholzhausen, and Bockhorst. The return unfolded before them, each a testament to Germany’s bucolic beauty. The descent from the woods offered flat, welcoming roads back to Warendorf and the Sportschule for another welcoming meal.
  • Sunday, July 20 –20th, continued the German leg of the journey with another magnificent ride. A 62-mile trek in a North-North-West direction led the group back into a more western part of the Teutoburger Forest, through Fuchtorf, Lienen, Leeden, Hagen, and Bad Laer punctuated the route. The return journey through Bad Laer was particularly memorable, providing a vibrant display of Sunday events a perfect snapshot of everyday German life.

These first days were light in spirit yet quietly preparing the group for the emotional gravity ahead.

Transition to France

Monday, July 21 – The group traveled by bus from Warendorf to Reims, France. The landscape outside the windows gradually shifted, and with each mile, the rider’s anticipation grew as we drew closer to the somber battlefields.

Riding Through History

From this point, every day combined physical challenges with solemn remembrance:

  • Tuesday, July 22 – 60 miles from Reims to Chalons-en-Champagne marked the true commencement of the expedition’s core purpose. The day unfolded across the very ground where unimaginable sacrifices had been made. The first stop, the American, German, and French cemeteries at Sommepy, Souain, and La Crouée. At the Battlefield Monuments Commission (ABMC) Sommepy, there was a moment of quiet solemnity, a wreath laying followed by a shared moment of silence. The journey continued to the ABMC Navarian Ossuary for a cultural stop, followed by a ride-by of the Deutscher Soldatengfriedhof Souain, a stark German military cemetery, a poignant reminder of the opposing forces. The group then paused for reflection at the Monument Aux Morts des Armies de Champagne, near the Necropole National La Crouee, a French cemetery, completing a triad of remembrance that spanned the primary combatants. Lunch and a visit to the Marne 14-18, Centre D’interpretation De Suippes provided crucial historical context before the day’s emotional crescendo at the Hotel de Ville in Chalons-en-Champagne. Here, the Mayor of Châlons-en-Champagne recounted the profound story of the selection of the American Unknown Soldier in 1921. On October 24, 1921, in this very town hall, Sergeant Edward Younger had chosen one of four unidentified American servicemen’s’ remains, a solemn act that would lead to his interment at Arlington National Cemetery. Todd Setter honored this enduring legacy by presenting an American Flag, which had flown over the United States Capitol on October 24, 2022, as a symbol of enduring remembrance.
  • Wednesday, July 23 – 71 miles Our journey continued from Chalons-en-Champagne to Chateau-Thierry. The day began with an official ceremony with the mayor on the street in front of the Hotel de Ville, solidifying the bonds forged the previous day. A talk at La Derniere Releve War Memorial in Chalons-en-Champagne provided further historical depth, followed by a rest stop at Tours Sur Marne and a ride through the famed champagne region of Epernay. Lunch was taken at the site of the colossal Statue du Pope Urban II at Chatillon-Sur-Marne, offering a unique cultural interlude. The afternoon brought another significant stop at the ABMC Oise-Aisne Cemetery where a wreath was laid, and a moment of silence observed, before the group settled for the night in Chateau-Thierry.
  • Thursday, July 24 –67-mile distance deepened the emotional impact as the riders rode from Chateau-Thierry to Melun. The day began with reflection at the ABMC Chateau Thierry and then moved to the iconic ABMC Belleau Wood Battlefield, a site forever etched in American military history. At the ABMC Belleau Wood Cemetery, a profoundly moving scene unfolded: five US Marine Veterans, their uniforms a testament to their service, raised the flag and laid a wreath, as the rest of the group stood in solemn reflection, honoring those lost. However, it was at the Belleau German military cemetery where the journey truly blossomed into an act of profound reconciliation. Sargent Major Naef Adebahr delivered deeply moving words, acknowledging the shared humanity and sacrifice. Following his address, all the German riders reverently placed flowers at the monument, a gesture of national remembrance. In an act that transcended historical enmity, every other participant then followed suit, laying flowers on individual German graves. This singular moment, filled with quiet respect and shared sorrow, was a powerful testament to the healing power of remembrance and the capacity for former adversaries to find common ground in shared grief and honor. The collective act was described by most as “very moving;” and it undoubtedly served as the emotional zenith of the entire journey. 
  • Friday, July 25 – saw the group cycle 58 miles from Melun to Versailles, a day that symbolized the transition from battlefield remembrance to a broader understanding of service and contemporary relationships. A particularly significant stop was made at the National Gendarmerie Officers Academy, (NGOA). Here, all riders and volunteers assembled in formation, showing respect to the Senior Officers and Cadets who stood equally in formation, joined by many family members. Senior Leadership from the NGOA addressed the group, fostering a powerful connection between the past and present military communities. In a gesture of international camaraderie, Todd Setter presented an American Flag, flown over the United States Capitol, to the Academy. After the formal ceremony, participants shared challenge coins with the cadets and their families, engaging in meaningful conversations for nearly an hour before returning to their bikes. The day concluded with the arrival at the Novotel Hotel Chateau de Versailles, a fitting end to a week of intense emotion and physical exertion.
  • Saturday, July 26 – offered a much-needed reprieve from cycling, allowing the group to remain at the same hotel in Versailles. Yet, the spirit of remembrance continued. At 0830, the entire group assembled in front of the Monument de la Gendarmerie National Ceremony, rejoining the same Gendarmerie Senior Officers from the previous day. A wonderful description of the monument to the first Gendarmerie soldier was shared, followed by another collective act of respect as all layed flowers on the steps of the monument. The rest of the day was spent exploring the magnificent sights of Versailles, a chance for personal reflection and appreciation of French history and culture.
  • Sunday, July 27 – marked the final day as a cohesive group, though the bonds forged were sure to last a lifetime. A short 20-mile out-and-back ride led us to two final ABMC sites. The ABMC Lafayette Escadrille Memorial was the first stop where a wreath was laid. Alexander Blumrosen, a French participant and expert on ABMC monuments, eloquently described the crucial contributions of American volunteers who joined the French Air Corps even before the official entry of the United States into WWI. Over an hour was spent touring this wonderful memorial, a testament to early international solidarity. The last stop and wreath laying took place at the ABMC Suresnes American Cemetery, bringing the formal remembrance journey to a poignant close. In the late afternoon, we enjoyed a reserved spot in front of the Versailles Palace gates giving us an upfront fleeting view of the 2025 Tour de France peleton. Returning to the Novotel Hotel, it culminated in a farewell dinner, a cherished opportunity for all participants to share their individual experiences and collectively reflect on the entirety of their ten days in Europe. Stories were exchanged, emotions shared, and the profound impact of the journey became clear. This extraordinary expedition was far more than a cycling tour; it was a pilgrimage. It was a journey of physical exertion, but more importantly, of emotional depth and historical introspection. Through shared miles, shared meals, and shared moments of somber reflection at cemeteries and memorials, the riders—representing nations once divided by war—found common ground. They learned that reconciliation is not about forgetting the past, but about understanding it, honoring all who suffered, and building bridges of peace for the future. Project Hero, with its dedicated team and participants, demonstrated that even a century later, the battlefields of World War I can transform from monuments of conflict into powerful catalysts for reconciliation, reminding us that shared humanity can, and must, triumph over historical divides. You can learn more about Project Hero and consider donating to this extraordinary organization at www.weareprojecthero.org.

Learn more—or support their mission—at www.weareprojecthero.org

 

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